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Suzuki GS500F Oil Change

As I have said before there are countless other websites that can demonstrate in much greater detail with better knowledge. However, what I can point out in much greater precision are a few things NOT to do, as I speak strictly from personal experience. Regularly giving this bike an oil change should be ridiculously easy. However, by making the slight mistake detailed below you can easily land yourself in an unnecessary hassle. The GSE and the older GSF's have to be even easier since there is no fairing in your way. The first time I seen a GSE I laughed at how awesome it must be to give that thing an oil change.

1) Get bike on center stand. This is actually annoying at first, but now its fun. Its like doing a modified dead lift. You got to lift the bike up and back. At first you are scared the bike is going to tip over, but its not. Just got to get it done. The videos people post like the one above is so annoying watching how effortlessly they do it. I only have had to do this a few times when working on the bike only.

2) Slightly loosen the 3 acorn nuts on the oil filter cover with 10mm socket. Slightly loosen oil drain nut underneath bike with 17mm socket and extension. This way you don't have to mess around with them when the bike is warm. Start bike and let run for a minute or 2 just to get the oil warm.

3) Once bike is cool enough remove the oil drain nut completely. Also unscrew the oil filler plug (where dipstick is) so the oil drains faster.

4) At this point I completely remove the oil filter cover. I start with the bottom nut first so whatever oil starts to leak out doesn't go all over the pipes.

5) Remove oil filter. Once all oil is drained from the bike take the new filter and line it with a bead of oil and install nice and tight. Keep in mind the filter below is the wrong filter for this bike. If you have paid more than $10, and you get it in a nice colorful box like below AND it is a screw on filter you are in the possession of a GSX-R filter. Go back to the shop and go easy on them and make sure you leave with a K&N 133 Suzuki GS500 Oil Filter .


6) Once you have installed the correct push in filter. You can replace the O-ring on the inside of the oil filter cover. You can use your discretion. Some change it yearly, but some don't. I replaced mine this year, but I don't think I really needed to since the one I removed seemed to be in the exact same condition as the new one. Whatever, takes 35 seconds and costs about 35 cents. Line the O-ring with oil.

7) **WARNING** You have now come to the sole reason why I made this stupid page. This sounds like a very simple task, but beware if the following step is not done with extreme caution you will not move on to step 8 anytime soon. You will also be at high risk of experiencing feelings of violent rage.

It is time to carefully re-install the oil filter cap. This can simply be done by placing the cap back on and CAREFULLY tightening each of the three 10mm acorn nuts back on. This is no time for any sense of increased manliness, do NOT attempt to go for the glory on this one. Actually your better off having your wife do this task. It will bring you both together and she will maybe even gain interest in your sport. These little 10mm nuts DO NOT need a champ to ensure the oil filter cover is clamped down and suffocated. It just has to be snug and tight enough nothing more. I have heeded fair warning and will continue now. Due to the fact that I never heard any mention of such a similar warning, I recklessly proceeded to use my nice new ratchet to clamp the hell out of this oil filter cover. Previously I just used a plain old screw driver with a socket attachment for this task and all was well. Using a ratchet you will be able to torque the hell out of this thing forever until it snaps so beware. After 1 thunderous turn to many I snapped the delicate bolt in half that connected directly to the engine...I paused and once I fully realized what had went down I literally looked to the sky and yelled the only thing you can imagine one can yell in a situation like this. I had half a broken stud sticking out of the engine now and could no longer secure the oil filter cover. (You are free to skip to step 8 at this point if you desire, as I am sure this will NEVER happen to you now).

7b) I really couldn't believe I had to deal with this. I had no idea if this stud was even threaded or welded directly onto the engine of the bike, if the latter than game over if not I am sure was probably glue locked in so potentially game over anyways. I considered just filling the bike with oil and just securing 2 of the 3 bolts and quickly getting it to a shop where they could deal with it. I wasn't sure how much oil I would leak tho and didn't seem to be too wise of a mission just yet. So yet again I had something new to research.

As much of a chump I felt like, it is crazy how common of an occurrence this actually is on this bike. Turns out these bolts are real delicate. I did some searches on the web and heard different methods of extracting the broken stud. I didn't understand how not one oil change web site brought this up but countless sites explaining what to do WHEN it happens. I could actually be the first to combine these. The only time this #%#$%# can happen is when you are doing an oil change!

I learned that this stud is threaded into the engine and some claimed was a total bitch to extract and others claimed not that bad. So I had to give it a shot at least before throwing in the towel (I actually did call a local shop and asked if they could just pick the dam thing up, but he told me 1 week). Basically the 3 ways to do this in order of difficulty (there is only 1 real way as you will see later) is to thread 2 nuts onto the bolt. You than grip onto the 1st nut and back it out against the 2nd nut and hopefully your bolt comes out with it. Sounded damn easy and worth a try. The 2nd method was using a good ole vice grip and extracting out. The 3rd, and most ridiculous, method was getting a special drill bit called an EZ Out Remover, you literally drill a hole into the already small and broken stud bolt and than use this EZ out bit to extract the stud. Yea maybe in a million years. Decision was easy I didn't have a pair of vice grips and luckily no EZ out drill bit so naturally I tried the 1st "easier" method.

Oil Filter Broken Stud Removal

Take 1 - Backing Out Nut Method
I got both nuts on the bottom broken stud. The only thing that was sketchy was that there was not too much meat on the stud left so I really had to back the first nut in pretty good just to barely get the 2nd nut on.

I than gripped onto the back nut and hoped this thing would start coming out like magic. After some turns I knew it was not working out, looked like I backed in the first nut to far and was not grabbing the threads properly and/or could have been stripped. The nut was just spinning over and over. I even tried to loosen the nut while simultaneously prying it away from the engine hoping it would just grab a thread on the stud and catch, if it was indeed just backed in to far. This was pointless, and wondered if I just killed my bike? At this point I was actually in a worst spot I was 15 minutes ago. If I wanted to even try to use vice grips now I couldn't because there was not enough of the stud to even grab onto with this stripped bolt stuck on. Wow I actually got to get one of those Ez out bits I said I would not even bother trying.

Take 2 - EZ Out Drill Extraction Method
Just getting an EZ out bit the right size for this was not even easy. I found one at an auto parts store, was the smallest one they make. This whole thing sounded ridiculous, I had to first be able to reach in such a limited space and somehow manage to drill a hole into the broken stud with one of the smallest drill bits I ever used, looked like a needle! I didn't even have a real hole punch to start me off since the stud was so narrow. After some slipping around and 1 broken drill bit I don't know how, but I actually managed to finally get a hole thru that stud. I than prayed this EZ out extraction bit would go in there and rip this thing out. Almost...I got the EZ out bit inside the stud bolt and began reversing out the bit. My drill was not going anywhere, was not budging at all. Before I knew it the only thing that ended up ripping was the EZ out bit itself, inside the %$*@% stud! I now had a broken bit stuck inside of a broken stud with a stripped nut and for some weird reason could not stop thinking of this clip.

It was just about now that I got pissed off. All I wanted to do was a simple $#%@*# god damn oil change! Once I calmed down I methodically began thinking about the overall situation at hand. If I was even able to get this thing to a shop at this point the only option anyone had at removing this stud was with vice grips. I had to attack the root of the problem the stud was no longer my goal, I had to get this stripped nut out before anything else. I went to the hardware store and got a rotary grinding tool for this exact purpose, and also foreshadowing I picked up a nice pair of vice grips, all of which were on sale. With some delicate surgical like skills I was able to extract the stripped nut off the bolt in very little time, was pretty awesome. I than used some PB Blaster and my shiny new vice grips and clamped down on this damn bolt and the below pictures paints all thousand words it took to type this.

I was then able to insert the brand new stud and move on with the oil change and more importantly my life. Make sure to just get the right stud from a shop. Don't try anything stupid like cutting a bolt head off, this special stud has a bulge in the middle and there is no reason for any other extra headaches at this point.

Looking back I wish I just got a vice grip and tried this first obviously, but unfortunately life isn't always that easy for me. Although the nut method sounds logical enough I can't see this really working with a bolt of this size. Unless you just happen to freakishly break just the tip of the stud off you will almost definitely run into the same issue I did and being forced to back it in to far. Also I wish they didn't even make an EZ out extraction bit this small of a size. There is no way a bit that measly will be able to withstand the pressure required to extract a bolt out. Even if I had a better drill I don't think it would have made much of a difference. So bottom line if this happens to your bike just get a nice pair of vice grips and maybe some PB blaster depending on how stubborn the bolt is in there, or if you want to avoid this altogether just use a torque wrench before any of this can happen! Ok now I can move on to step 8 and finish the oil change, but thanks for reading.

8) Once oil filter cover is on secure the oil drain nut. Your supposed to replace the crush washer every time, but I never have yet. I think next oil change I will, but its supposed to be a little annoying and I didn't need any other surprises this time around. Finally time to add the oil. Make sure you add motorcycle oil (duh), this oil is utilized by your clutch also so you can't use car oil. I usually add about 2.5 quarts, and then start the bike up and re-check again. After it has cooled I top off as much as needed. Repeat next year, omitting step 7b.

8b) *UPDATE* I now recommend following the damn instructions and changing your crush washer every god damn oil change. I had a bitch removing my drain bolt, and I think it can be partly blamed by the fact that I had to clamp the hell out of it last time to avoid any oil dripping. I am thinking if I used a nice new .30 cent crush washer would have created a better seal and I would not have had to clamp the living fuck out of it. What a chump.



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